Ashley – Page 2 – Delightful Dogs

Reward Good Behavior

This is especially true for new to you dogs. Keep treats out of reach for your dog around the house, so you can reward at any given moment. Anything you see your dog doing that is a behavior you want to see again, reward him/her for that behavior. You can use those treats you have on hand or you can say “good boy/girl”, give a gentle (calm) pat on the head, etc.

Ex: taking treats out when you take your dog out to potty, is a good idea so you can reward him for going in the place you want him to go.

Plan Ahead

Identify behaviors you want your dog to know – I have a list for each dog I own, that I want him or her to know. Then I plan what behavior we are going to focus on each session.

If I want to TEACH a NEW behavior, we focus on JUST that 1 per session. If we are practicing old behaviors then I’ll practice multiple behaviors.

It helps to write out a goal for each behavior so you know what you are working toward.

Get Everyone Involved

Get the WHOLE family in on the training. This helps your dog listen to every member in the family and it helps generalizes the cues and behaviors. Once everyone is on the same page on how a cue is given and what to reward with, etc. family members can give you a break if you like 🙂

Its good for you, your family and your dog(s).

Make Training Fun

Training should be fun for you and your dog.

Make sure YOU are in a good mood before you start training.

If your dog is too excited or anxious or not paying attention for any reason, take him on a walk or play some ball before a training session

Touch/Come week 4

Here is the last step to “Touch”

Take it on the Road:

Practice in every room of your house, backyard, front yard, driveway, park, and pet store. Practice when you have company, when the kids are being loud, any and every distraction that you can use to practice is the best way to have a reliable “Touch”, so no matter what your dog will always come and touch your hand.

Practicing this behavior everywhere you go, will help your dog respond to you in every situation, but if you only practice at home, he will only respond to you at home.

Touch/Come Week 3

Hi guys! Keep up the good work!! I hope you are seeing more progress.

Here is the next step to “Touch”

If your dog is running to you and touching your hand every time you present it, then you are ready to give it a name! Go back to the first step. Present your hand a few inches from your dog’s nose and when your dog touches your hand, say “Touch” or “Nose” (whichever you prefer… something that is easy for you to remember). It should go like this: offer hand, dogs touches hand/say “Touch”, C/T! Repeat. Work with both hands. After a few touches with you saying “touch” when he touches, start saying it when he is starting to go for your hand, repeat this a few times. After practicing for a little bit, say “Touch” then present your hand and see what your dog does. If he touches, GREAT, you’re ready to move on. If he doesn’t touch your hand, go back to making it easier for your dog.

Touch/Come week 2

Hello Again!! How’s training going?? Do you enjoy working with your dog? Let me know!!

Here is the next step to “Touch”

We want your dog to move toward the target (your hand). Present your hand a few inches away from your dogs face, when he touches it, C/T. Move your hand to the side of your dog’s head, when he touches, C/T! Try stepping away from your dog and see if he touches your hand, again if he touches, C/T! Try mixing it up by presenting your hand down low, away from your body, through your legs, etc. Move farther from your dog and see if he’ll come to you to touch your hand. If at any point your dog doesn’t do it, make it easier; move your hand closer, if it’s on the ground, raise it. Our goal as the trainer is to help our dogs succeed.

Touch/Come week 1

Hey everyone!! I hope youre not going crazy being cooped up in your house. Sometimes it feels that way to me, so we go outside and enjoy the fresh air… the downside is that it has been raining a lot and it’s been very chilly, but its suppose to warm up soon.

Today I’m sharing the first steps to “Touch”. Touch is when your dog comes and touches his nose to your hand or another object. It is a great alternate to come because the dog has to come and touch you to complete the behavior. This is also a great behavior for dogs that are scared of things. Once your dog knows the cue you can use it to “touch” the scary thing (whether a vets hand, the vacuum cleaner, anything your dog finds scary).

First Steps:

You’ll need your clicker, treats, timer, and treat pouch (if desired). Find a comfortable spot to sit or stand. Hold out the opposite hand that is holding your clicker in front of your dogs nose. Curiosity will take over and he will sniff your hand. Click and Treat (C/T)! Take your hand away. Then present your hand again and when he sniffs/touches/licks your hand he gets a click and treat! If your dog doesn’t show interest in your hand, just take your hand away and present it again.

Your goal is to get 10 hand touches with clicks and treats in 40 seconds.

I will be posting the next step next week. Practice all week- just 10 treats worth of training/per each session.

Wait at a Boundary

Wait at a boundary can be used in many scenarios like having good manners at house doors, stairs, and car doors.

Step 1: Start by shaping your dog to stay on 1 side of the boundary (I use a broom). Every time your dog approaches the boundary, click and treat (C/T) BEFORE he takes a step over the boundary. When the dog is reliably remaining on one side of the boundary you will be ready to introduce the cue, “wait”.

Step 2: When the dog comes to the boundary and stops say, “wait”, C/T.

Repeat this step 10 times until your dog is stopping when you say “wait”.

Step 3: Start using the cue “wait” in different scenarios (house and car doors, etc).

When you WANT them to cross the boundary, you can say “release” and then C/T for when he or she moves forward.

The more you practice the better your dog will be at waiting for you to release him or her to do another activity.

Management: Tie Downs

A tie-down is a great management tool for:

Separation anxiety
Bothering the family at the dinner table
Barking at the door
Jumping up on people and furniture
Mouthing
Playing too rough
Chewing up the wrong things
Meeting a cat
Housetraining/Marking in the house
Jumping up on your bed
Giving adult dog time away from the bouncy puppy
Training sessions

For safety reasons, please do not attach to the tie down to a gentle leader, halti, choke, pinch, or any other restricting collar.

What is it:A tie-down is a leash, rope or cable that is 2-3 feet long and is attached to an immovable object (like a piece of furniture) and to your dogs collar.

A tie-down should be placed in a fairly busy room of your house. It is ONLY used when someone is home and only to be used INSIDE the house. A tie-down is to be used as a management tool. He should be comfortable, and have something good to lie on, chew on and play with while on tie-down. Be careful that the dog can’t drag the piece of furniture around with him. Keep in mind that a tie-down is not a tie-out. A tie-out is a cable that used to tie our dogs in a yard so they don’t run away. I do NOT recommend using a tie-out.

Setting up your tie-down:Put the dog on it several times a day for 10-15 minutes at a time. You can give him a stuffed Kong or other chew toy. Once your dog is comfortable on the tie down for 15 min, begin to extend the time and vary it so he doesn’t know exactly how long he’ll be on it, and in the process learn to be patient. If he barks while he’s tied, try leaving the room and return when he’s quiet. If your dog chews on your leash, use a chain or cable leash.

Using the tie-down:

General environment management: if you’re busy, and you can’t keep an eye on the dog, put him on his tie-down. That way he can’t get into mischief when you aren’t looking.
Jumping up: putting him on a tie-down before the guests come in, will keep him from practicing a bad habit. After you’ve greeted your guest, and he’s calm, your guests can either go pet him or you can let him off the tie-down. If he jumps on you or someone else, gently say “off” then calmly take him to his tie-down and hook him up there for a few minutes. Let him off when he’s calm.
House training: a tie-down is a good tool for house training and can be used along with crate training. Having your dog on a tie-down is just like having him in a crate, but it gives him a different view and more variety. It also allows you to be more interactive. Just be sure to take your dog outside frequently to relieve himself.
Separation anxiety: Some dogs follow their owners from room to room, often trying to touch them, or lean against them. Although its nice to think he loves you, there is such a thing as too much attention (and these dogs are often are awful when left alone). Setting up and consistently using a tie-down a couple times a day allows your dog to learn that though you go away, you always return and he can’t attach himself to you.
Dog/cat interactions: If you have a cat that needs to be introduced to you’re dog, and you’re concerned that they won’t get along, use a tie-down for the dog and give the cat the run of the room. When the dog sees the cat and remains calm, he gets a treat. (The cat also gets a treat for looking at the dog). It allows your cat to feel safe and you to feel confident that your dog can’t run after your cat. This is also a great tool for introducing 2 dogs: one on the tie down, and you holding the leash to the other dog.
Begging prevention: Give him his own toy or bone on his tie-down before you begin eating. Do occasionally remember to tell him he’s doing good, example: “Good boy!”

IMPORTANT NOTE: ONLY use a tie down when you re home and ONLY use it on your dog’s buckle collar.